Time to revise your bucket list, and include the Vallée du Loir

Restaurant Ô PRESTIGE à Baugé has a fine reputation

Still in town, we enjoyed lunch at the Restaurant Ô PRESTIGE à Baugé (www.oprestige.com), run by enterprising chef Yohann Fouineau, whose penchant is for sea produce and timeless dishes.

Entrance to the magnificent Château du Lude

Our next stop was the Château du Lude (www.lelude.com), one of the architectural jewels of the first French Renaissance. Standing at the crossroads of Anjou, Maine and Touraine, Le Lude is one of the last important historical castles in France, and the same family have occupied it for the last two hundred and sixty years. The stronghold was transformed into the elegant house that we see today during the Renaissance and the 18th century. The stately rooms attest to a brilliant and refined history. Visitors can discover a succession of apartments complete with their original furniture, including the 15th century kitchens. The outbuildings are still composed of the 16th century’s vaulted stables.

The magnificent River Loir runs by the Château du Lude

It was a delightful afternoon during which to wander around the gardens, which are based on a 17th century design and stretch over several terraces, with wonderful views of the Loir Valley.

The rose garden at Château du Lude is rich in colour and smell

Rich in colour and diversity, they are composed of formal gardens, a rose garden with Chinese and Tea roses, a romantic park and a kitchen garden.

Auberge Relais du Cheval Blanc also serves an excellent dinner

I spent a relaxing evening in the small village of Beaumont Pied de Boeuf, staying at the Auberge Relais du Cheval Blanc (www.aubergechevalblanc72.com). The auberge is owned by Évelyne and Philippe Cauchois, who also run the adjacent inn, which is renowned for its authenticity, atmosphere and cuisine.

Philippe Cauchois has received many accolades for his cuisine

Philippe, a master restaurateur, has received many accolades for his inventive, fresh and simple cuisine, made with local, seasonal produce. Only that morning he had been out collecting mushrooms in the nearby Fôret de Bercé, from which he produced a delicious appetiser at dinner.

Fôret de Bercé contains many magnificent trees

The forest was the first port of call the following morning. Sunlight danced through the tree canopy as we approached a parking area of what remains of the once immense forest of Carnutes.

The only way is up… Véronique Richard relaxes as she views the tree canopy

There are still 5,400 hectares of glorious woodland to wander around, complete with softwood varieties and oak trees several hundred years old, producing high-quality wood, which is much sought-after for barrel making.

The soaring giants pierce the canopy

These soaring, straight ‘pillars’ of Bercé pierce the canopy, owing their perfection to the method of growing beech forests in sub stages, forcing them upwards towards the light. They are indeed a wonder to behold.

Carnuta – La Maison de l’Homme et de la Fôret

In the nearby village of Jupilles you can pop into Carnuta – La Maison de l’Homme et de la Fôret (www.carnuta.fr). In this space dedicated to both fun and learning are two areas, one dedicated to temporary exhibitions, while the other invites visitors to take a walk through the heart of a reconstituted forest where, as part of an interactive display, you can discover sounds, images, stories and smells.

One of the many wine cellars of the Domaine des Gauletteries 

We then called into the Domaine des Gauletteries (www.domainelelais.com) for a wine tasting. Owned by Francine and Raynald Lelais, the wine cellars of the 17ha domaine are dug into the tufa rock on the banks of the Loir near the charming village of Poncé sur le Loir, and create an extraordinary experience.

The vineyards and wines of the Loir Valley are more than a reality

Since the early Middle Ages, the vine has occupied an important place in the Loir Valley. Henry IV, who rode between La Fleche and Vendôme, liked Jasnieres so much that he had it served in the royal castle of Saint-Germain-en-Laye. As such then, the vineyards and wines of the Loir Valley are more than a reality. They are its identity.

Domaine des Gauletteries 

From Villiers-sur-Loir to Chateau-du-Loir, south-facing vineyards produce the best from their grape varieties. The reds, produced from the grape variety Pineau d’Aunis, are light but full of character, with spicy notes. The grape originated in Anjou, but has been cultivated on the Loir hillsides for over a thousand years. The whites, from the grape variety chenin blanc (or Pineau de la Loire), are also an old Anjoy grape variety, and develop an exceptional flavour from the time of harvesting. and often become great wines for keeping, They can be recognised by their taste of flintstone, also known as gun flint, acquired in the unique soil of the region.

Chez Miton – Le Bistro de Chahaignes makes the perfect lunch stop

Lunch followed at Chez Miton – Le Bistrot de Chahaignes (chezmiton@orange.fr), located at 15 Place de l’Elise in the attractive village of Chahaignes. By all accounts, a loyal clientele travel for miles to eat here, and I can understand why.

Chef Naoko offers home-made, seasonal cuisine

Chef Naoko offers diners home-made and seasonal cuisine using local produce in a gourmet bistro-type setting. The wines are specially selected by manager Miton, the list including Coteaux du Loir and Jasnieres wines from some twenty winegrowers in the region.

Sébastien Cornille runs the Domaine de la Roche Bleue

It was then time for more wine tasting, this time with Sébastien Cornille, the latest wine maker to the vineyards of the Sarthe. 

Wine bottle bottoms makes a unique picture

Sébastien runs the Domaine de la Roche Bleue (domainedelarochebleue@ymail.com), and has already succeeded in winning over some of the finest tables in France with the authenticity of his Jasnieres.

Sébastien has already succeeded in winning over some of the finest tables in France with the authenticity of his Jasnieres

Mould collected on wine bottles after spending years in the cellar

Outside Beaumont-sur-Deme lies Les Jardins du Prieuré de Vauboin, an extraordinarily arrangement of contrasting yet complementary gardens, one being a ‘Hortus Conclusus’ (enclosed garden), the other a century-old box plantation.

The extraordinary maze at Les Jardins du Prieuré de Vauboin

The gardens are the inspiration of Thierry Juge, who tends them at the foot of a limestone hillside with its own spring, which in turn gently trickles around a 14th century house.

Thierry Juge’s wonderful 14th century house

Wooden mushroom carvings litter the hillside

The garden plants are a beautifully orchestrated symphony of greens, punctuated by the occasional hint of white. Cast your eyes towards the hillside, and Thierry has created extraordinary box plant shapes in the shade of century-old oaks.

River Loir, pretty as a picture

A visit to this region would not be complete without a cruise on the River Loir. The weather could not have been kinder, with dappled sunlight piercing the trees, which in turn cast long shadows across the still waters.

Véronique Richard takes the helm, with Michel Timmerman watching over

We boarded the Spirit of Adventure at La Chartre sur Le Loir, with skipper Michel Timmerman at the helm. (micheltimer@hotmail.fr).

Santé… the only way to cruise the river

We joined a small party already enjoying oysters and champagne for lunch, and cruised along the river with glasses to hand, captivated by the scenery and the odd carp which left ripples across the surface.

Michel pours a glass of champers

My final night was spent at Le Grand Moulin (www.mdmillet-moulin.fr), a rather splendid bed and breakfast in La Chartre sur le Loir.

View from the bedroom at Le Grand Moulin

The water mill stopped activity in 1972, and was converted to offer attractive accommodation in 2005. It sits in a lovely location enclosed by a large wall, with the garden terrace overlooking the Loir. I opened the shutters of my pleasant room to discover the same view.

Hôtel de France has many attachments to Le Mans 24-hour race track

I dined with friends just round the corner at the Hôtel de France (www.lhoteldefrance.fr), a country relais forever attached to the Le Mans 24-hour race track, with signed photographs of drivers lining the walls of the bar. Once again, the chef produces tasty local dishes, drawing inspiration from seasonal produce.

As you can imagine, the Vallée du Loir offers the visitor an inspiring landscape with its many easily discoverable treasures. So, if your liking is for fine wine, gourmet food, boutique accommodation, bountiful visitor attractions, all suitably washed down with romance and serenity – and I am sure you will tick all of those boxes – then this region is definitely for you, and somewhere you would wish to return to time and again.